Surviving Winter in Chicago…with Asian Soups


January 24, 2012

As we head into February I’m reminded that, here in Chicago, the shortest month of the year always feels like the longest. While we’ve had it pretty easy so far this winter, we can be sure there’s plenty of cold to come. To get through a Chicago winter healthy, happy and intact requires some serious strategizing.

After spending a couple winters miserably sick from December to April, I decided I needed to have a winter plan. Aside from eating well, exercise, a happy light, and some immune boosting herbs, I have found that it’s crucial to plan fun time and special winter treats. Each week I plan an outing to a favorite restaurant for soup, usually for lunch by myself, or I take the kids with me to join in on the slurping action. I also make soup at home once a week during the cold months. My favorite soups? Asian, of course. We live in one of the best ethnic melting pots in America. Take advantage and embrace these amazing soups that will clear your sinuses and warm your soul.

• Pho: Great anytime, but especially if you feel under the weather. The beef broth in this Vietnamese noodle soup is fragrant with cinnamon and star anise. You customize your (huge) bowl with fresh herbs, Sriracha hot sauce and sweet hoisin sauce. Make it spicy if you have a cold; the steam from the soup and heat from the chilies will have you breathing clear in no time. My favorite Pho spots are on Argyle Street at Tank Noodle and Pho 888.

• Khao Soi: This is a chicken and egg noodle soup with a base of curry and coconut milk. It’s a northern Thai specialty that’s everything a great Thai dish should be: spicy, sour and a little sweet. Because it’s a regional specialty it can be hard to find, but Opart Thai House has a nice version. I also like the Khao Soi at Sticky Rice; they specialize in Northern Thai cuisine. But my favorite way to enjoy khao soi is at home. It’s surprisingly easy to make, but frying the noodles for the crispy topping does take a little extra time and effort.

• Kimchee Stew: This staple Korean soup/stew will clear you out when you have a cold, and is highly nutritious as well (thanks to the fermented kimchee). Plus, it’s often made with pork belly, so naturally it tastes great. It may be an acquired taste for some, but once you get into it, it’s a highly addictive dish. I get my fix at the food court at Super H Mart in Niles (dedicated post on this mega-mart to come), or at San Soo Gab San.

Urban Belly soups. Not much to say here as everything at this noodle/dumpling shop is amazing and will warm you; body and soul. I’m completely addicted to #14, the Asian Egg Noodle with sour/sweet marinated eggplant, tofu and the most delicious broth ever. Trust me.

• Tom Kha Kai: This favorite Thai soup gives you the healing benefits of chicken soup (it’s made with chicken broth and coconut milk) plus the sinus clearing bonus of some serious spice from Thai chilies. Add with galangal, lemongrass, cilantro and lime, you have a soup that’s 100 times more interesting than “Chicken and Stars”. Siam Noodle and Rice makes a great Tom Kha.

Curry noodle soup at home

Thai Coconut Curry Chicken Soup
Serves 8

This is a lighter curry soup that I love to make at home. The crisp vegetables on top add a nice crunch and boost the nutritional value of the dish.

1 pound boneless skinless chicken breast
1/2 pound snow peas, trimmed and cut crosswise in half
1 red pepper, thinly sliced into bit size pieces
1 (5 3/4-ounce) package pad Thai noodles or wide rice noodles
1 tablespoon grapeseed or coconut oil
1/4 cup thinly sliced shallots
1 tablespoon red curry paste
2 teaspoons curry powder
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
2 garlic cloves, minced
6 cups chicken broth
1 can coconut milk
1-2 tablespoons palm sugar, or to taste
Juice of ½-1 lime, or to taste
2 tablespoons fish sauce, or to taste
3 cups baby bok choy, stem chopped to ½ inch pieces, leaves thinly sliced
1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro leaves, plus 8 sprigs, for garnish
1/2 cup julienne green onions, white and light green
4 Thai red chiles, seeded and chopped
8 lime wedges

Bring 4 cups of the water to a boil in a large sauce pot over medium heat. Add the chicken breast, reduce the heat and simmer until cooked through, about 10-15 minutes. Remove from the pot to a cutting board or bowl and set aside until cool enough to handle. Shred the chicken with a fork and set aside. *Alternatively you can use a Rotisserie chicken, or chicken meat leftover from making stock

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the snap peas and red pepper and boil for 30 seconds. Scoop out with a large spider or slotted spoon into a waiting bowl of ice water. Add the rice noodles and cook until tender-firm, about 5-6 minutes (or check package directions, cooking time will vary by size of noodle).

Heat the grapeseed oil in a large sauce pot over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, curry paste, madras curry powder, turmeric, coriander and garlic to the pot and saute for 1 minute. Add the chicken broth to the pot, and bring to a boil. Stir in the coconut milk, palm sugar, fish sauce and bok choy stems, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the shredded chicken and bok choy leaves and cook for 2 minutes or until the chicken is warmed through. Add the lime juice and taste and adjust the seasoning.

Place a heap of noodles in each bowl and top with some of the snow peas and peppers. Ladle the chicken mixture over each bowl of noodles and garnish with chopped cilantro, green onions, chiles and a wedge of lime.

Khao Soi (Chiang Mai curried egg noodles)
Serves 6

Notes:
• If you’d like to lighten the curry sauce add 1-2 cups chicken stock or water in lieu of some of the coconut milk
• Don’t overcook the chicken, especially if you are using boneless skinless chicken breast. It only takes a few minutes to cook through depending on the size of your chicken cubes. Start testing for doneness (by cutting open a thicker chunk of chicken) early
• A deep fry/candy thermometer makes frying the noodles for garnish much easier

3/4 cup coconut cream
1 tablespoon red curry paste
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 pound boneless skinless chicken breast or chicken thigh meat, cut into bite size cubes
4 cups coconut milk
2-3 tablespoons fish sauce or light soy sauce or to taste
1 tablespoon palm sugar (optional) or to taste
1 tablespoon dark sweet soy sauce or to taste
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice or to taste
1 1/2 pounds fresh Chinese style egg noodles (bamee)

For the garnish:
Vegetable oil for deep frying
2 tablespoons coarsely ground dried red chili
1/2 cup pickled Chinese cabbage
1/2 cup thinly sliced shallot
Fried shallots or garlic chips
1 lime, cut into 6 wedges
Handful cilantro leaves

In a large heavy bottomed saucepan, warm the coconut cream over medium heat until it boils gently. Add the curry paste and turmeric and stir to combine. Continue to cook a few minutes at a gentle simmer until the curry paste is fragrant.

Add the chicken and stir fry to coat with the paste. Cook for about 2 minutes. Increase the heat and add the coconut milk, fish sauce, soy sauce, and salt; stir well. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook 5-8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat, stir in the limejuice. Taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking.

In a small deep saucepan heat 3 inches deep worth of vegetable oil to 360 degrees (if you do not have a thermometer test a small noodle strand-it should sizzle and bubble and become puffy immediately). Separate 1/2 pounds worth of noodles into 8 individual bundles. Deep fry each bundle, one at a time, and turning once during the cooking time, until golden brown, crispy, and puffed, about 8-10 seconds total. Place on a paper towel lined plate to drain. Save 3 tablespoons of the cooking oil and fry the ground chili in this oil in a separate small frying pan. Set aside in a small dish as a garnish.

Cook the remaining noodles in boiling water, 2-4 minutes, or until tender. Begin tasting for doneness after a minute. Drain and rinse in cold water and drain again. The noodles should not be overly wet, or they will dilute the curry sauce.

To serve, place a handful of cooked noodles in each serving bowl. Ladle a generous amount of the curry sauce over the noodles. Garnish with the crispy noodle bundles and cilantro leaves. Serve with the hot chili oil, lime wedges, sliced shallots and/ or fried shallots, and pickled Chinese cabbage.

Thai Banana Fritters


May 16, 2011

My first love in cooking is Southeast Asian. I teach a lot of Thai cooking classes, and students often ask what my favorite Thai restaurant is. I do have an all-time favorite. The only problem? It’s in Bloomington Indiana.

I know, it doesn’t sound like a hot bed for great ethnic eats. But trust me, this is authentic Thai cooking with heart. The cooks in the back squat over mortar and pestles, pounding spice pastes, and a huge kaffir lime tree grows by the kitchen window.

Still, I am not expecting you to drive 4 hours for the best Thai in the Midwest. So here I’d like to share the only written recipe I’ve ever had access to from Siam House. It was printed in Bon Appetit in 2001, and is a popular dessert at the restaurant. It’s quite easy to prepare and the batter can be made in advance. You do need to fry the bananas at the last minute, for maximum crispiness.

Be sure to use a deep fry thermometer, like this one, frying temperatures fluctuate even with a heavy pan and steady flame-you could drive yourself mad trying to fry without one.

I serve this with Haagen Dasz vanilla and some good farmer’s market honey that I warm first in the microwave. If you’re making a Thai meal for friends and family, or any Asian inspired meal, this is a crowning glory.

 

 

Banana Fritters with Honey and Ice Cream
The batter and bananas can be prepared ahead of time, leaving only the frying to do at the last minute.

1 cup warm water (105°F to 115°F)
1 large egg
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon dry yeast
1 cup all purpose flour
1/2 cup sweetened shredded coconut
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

4 large bananas

Vegetable oil (for frying)
Honey
Vanilla ice cream

Whisk 1 cup warm water, egg, and 2 tablespoons oil in large bowl to blend. Add yeast, then flour, whisking until smooth. Cover and let stand at room temperature until batter has almost doubled in volume, about 2 hours. Stir in coconut, sesame seeds, and nutmeg. Cut bananas on deep diagonal into eighteen 1/2-inch-thick slices. (Reserve any remaining bananas for another use.) Add banana slices to batter; stir gently to coat. (Can be prepared up to 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.)

Pour vegetable oil into heavy medium saucepan to depth of 1 1/2 inches. Attach deep-fry thermometer and heat oil to 350°F. Insert fork into 1 banana slice and transfer to oil. Repeat with 5 banana slices. Fry until crisp and golden on all sides, about 3 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer fritters to paper-towel-lined plate to drain. Repeat with remaining bananas in 2 more batches. Divide fritters among 6 plates. Drizzle with honey and serve warm with ice cream.

Makes 6 servings.

Bon Appétit
R.S.V.P.
September 2001
Wemonrat Pok
Siam House, Bloomington, IN

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